Plumbing guide · Kitchen, basin and bath taps
A persistent drip needs the right diagnosis before the right part. The answer may be a washer, ceramic valve, cartridge or seal — depending on the tap and where it leaks.
Start by noting the symptoms. This guide helps you decide what to check, what information to gather and when a plumber should take over. Use the instructions for your actual tap before dismantling it.
Arrange a tap repair
1. Find out where the water is coming from
Dry the tap and the surrounding area, then watch where water first appears during normal use. If a leak is already escaping into a cupboard, wall or floor, stop using the fitting and deal with the leak before investigating cosmetic marks.
A drip from the spout
A brief after-drip can be water left in the spout. A continuing drip after shut-off can point to a valve that is not sealing properly. Note whether it happens after using the hot side, cold side or either.
Water around the handle or spout joint
The leak may involve a seal or the internal mechanism. Check whether water appears only while the tap is running. Do not assume a new washer at the outlet will solve it.
Water underneath the basin or sink
A wet cupboard does not automatically mean the tap body is faulty. Supply connections, hoses and waste fittings also need checking. Tell the plumber whether it leaks when the tap runs, when water drains, or continuously.
Weak or uneven flow
Look at whether one tap or several outlets are affected. An outlet aerator may need attention, but a supply restriction or system mismatch needs a different solution. Record the pattern before ordering a replacement tap.
The amount of water lost depends on the leak rate and how long it continues. Arrange attention for a persistent leak, even when it seems small.
2. Identify the tap before buying parts
A traditional compression tap commonly shuts off by pressing a washer against a seat. Other designs use ceramic valves or a mixing cartridge. “Monobloc” describes a tap fitted through one mounting hole; it does not, by itself, identify the replacement part.
Find the brand and model on your paperwork or product markings. Save a clear photograph of the whole tap and its controls. Check the manufacturer’s parts list for the model and version: similar-looking cartridges or valves are not proof of compatibility.
Useful details include whether the tap has separate hot and cold handles or a single lever, the approximate age and any previous repair. If identifying a part requires dismantling, first decide whether you can isolate the supplies and complete the work safely.
3. Check isolation before taking anything apart
The relevant water supplies must be isolated before servicing a tap. A mixer may have both hot and cold feeds, and closing one valve does not isolate the other. Follow the tap’s instructions and the arrangements for your plumbing system.
Do not loosen the tap, cartridge or supply fittings if water still flows after isolation. Never force a seized valve. A plumber can establish a suitable isolation method, including where stored hot water or shared supplies complicate the job.
Find your internal stop tap in advance and check that you can reach it. Do not assume it alone isolates every part of every hot-water system. WaterSafe advises operating stop taps gently and seeking help when they do not work; external stop taps can affect neighbouring properties.
If escaping water reaches electrical equipment or fittings, keep away from the wet equipment and obtain appropriate professional help. Do not open electrical covers to investigate a plumbing leak.
4. Follow the repair instructions for that model
A generic washer tutorial cannot cover every tap. Once the fault and compatible part are identified, the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions should guide dismantling, servicing and reassembly.
- Prepare the job. Confirm the model, replacement part, required tools and access. Protect the basin or sink and keep small screws and seals from falling into the waste.
- Isolate and check. Shut off the relevant supplies and confirm that water flow has stopped before opening the fitting.
- Inspect the relevant component. A worn washer, damaged valve or cartridge may need replacement. Debris or scale may call for servicing where the manufacturer permits it. Repeatedly fitting new seals will not fix every damaged seat or tap body.
- Reassemble and test. Follow the specified sequence and tightening guidance. Restore the supplies carefully, operate the tap and check the spout, joints and area below it for leaks.
Do not improvise a chemical soak, force a stuck component or keep tightening a fitting that still leaks. Stop and reassess if parts will not seat correctly or the leak returns. Keep the model and part details for future maintenance.
5. Decide whether repair or replacement makes sense
Repair may be practical when
The tap body and fittings are sound, the fault is identifiable and a compatible component is available. Access and the amount of dismantling still affect the work involved.
Consider replacement when
The body is damaged, compatible parts cannot be confirmed, or faults keep returning after proper repairs. A replacement can also be considered alongside planned basin, sink or bathroom work.
Compare the proposed work, parts, access and total quotation before deciding. A new tap must suit the mounting arrangement, connections and water-pressure requirements of the existing system. Appearance alone will not tell you whether it will give suitable flow.
For leaks involving the wider bathroom, see bathroom repairs. A shower control or concealed fitting may need its own model-specific assessment.
6. Clean the tap without damaging the finish
Use the care instructions for the tap and its finish. A soft cloth and an approved cleaning method are a better starting point than an aggressive descaler. Avoid abrasive cleaning and do not mix products.
Advice for one manufacturer’s internal valve is not a cleaning recipe for every tap surface. For example, hansgrohe warns against acetic-acid cleaners on its kitchen taps. Check before applying vinegar or a descaling solution.
If the flow becomes uneven, look for the aerator instructions for that model. Some outlets need a specific tool or removal method. Cleaning the outlet will not repair a valve that fails to shut off.
7. Give the plumber useful details
A clear description helps establish the next step. Include the property postcode, the tap’s location, where the leak appears and whether you can isolate it. Add the brand or model if known, photographs of the tap and accessible connections, and details of earlier repairs.
Need help with a leaking tap?
Tell us where the tap leaks so the parts, access and repair options can be assessed. Confirm availability, the scope of work and the quotation before arranging a visit.
Enquire about tap repairsFor another plumbing problem, browse our plumbing services.
8. Common questions about dripping taps
Is a short drip after turning a tap off always a fault?
A small amount of water can drain from the spout just after a tap is turned off. A drip that continues, returns repeatedly or accompanies a leak elsewhere needs investigation. Note how long it lasts and where the water appears.
Does every dripping tap need a new washer?
No. A compression tap may have a replaceable washer, while other taps use ceramic valves or a cartridge. A leak around the handle, spout joint or supply connection may involve different seals or fittings. Identify the tap and the leak before ordering parts.
Should I turn the handle harder to stop a drip?
Do not force a stiff handle or keep tightening it to stop a leak. This can damage the mechanism. If gentle normal operation does not shut off the flow, stop using the tap and arrange an assessment.
How can I find the correct cartridge or valve?
Start with the brand, model and purchase or installation paperwork. Check the manufacturer’s parts information, including any version differences. Photographs can help identify a tap, but confirm compatibility before buying a part that only looks similar.
Can I repair a leaking tap myself?
Only attempt work when you can isolate the relevant supplies, understand the model’s maintenance instructions and have suitable tools and parts. Leave it to a plumber if isolation fails, access is awkward, the fitting is damaged or you are unsure how it goes back together.
Will a replacement tap improve poor water flow?
Not necessarily. Poor flow may relate to an outlet blockage, a supply issue or a tap that does not suit the system. Check the cause and the replacement tap’s water-pressure and installation requirements before choosing it.
General guidance does not replace the instructions supplied with your tap. These sources explain isolation, tap faults, parts identification and care.
